‘Is Sumatra a safe place to travel?’ – This is probably the most common concern for people considering a trip here. It’s true; Sumatra can feel a million miles away from it’s fellow Indonesian isle – the ever popular Bali, in more ways than one.
The short answer is; yes! Of course. I have lived here on Sumatra for over six years now and I would argue that not only is it safe but that it is also a fantastic travel destination – you just have to know a few basics.
Today I thought I’d give you the 101 on what to expect from a trip to Sumatra, as well as some helpful tips for maximizing your enjoyment and minimizing any discomfort.
Respect the culture
Okay, I get it; you’ve come on holiday to a tropical paradise where the sun seems to be shining constantly and it is HOT. You want to relax and get a tan, not be told to cover yourself. However, covering up while in major towns and cities should actually have the effect of making you feel more comfortable, rather than less.
Sumatrans, for the most part, hold very tightly to their cultural values, and their culture is incredibly traditional. The people here will surprise you with their kindness and joie de vivre, but in return you will be expected to cover your shoulders and knees (and everything in between) while in built up/busy public places, which seems fair, right? I would suggest this is followed more strictly by solo female travelers, and groups of ladies traveling without a male.
Strike a Pose
If you want to turn heads it’s really very easy; just show up! Tourism numbers have never been particularly high here, and following the 2004 Tsunami in Aceh they fell even further and have never really recovered. And more recently the COVID19 pandemic… *que crickets*
Expect to be engaged by anyone and everyone that you meet. Expect to have a million selfies with people of all ages, every day. Expect to find a language barrier – very few people that you meet here will be able to say much more that ‘Hello mister, what is your name?’ Finally, expect to see the occasional grumpy face, but know that if you smile at them they will immediately transform and beam back at you with the most brilliant 300 watt smile that you’ve ever seen.
Travel in Sumatra comes with all manner of difficulties, from constant selfie requests to poor infrastructure, a language barrier to a plastic problem, but if you can see past these things and do so with a smile, I guarantee that you are in for an absolutely unforgettable trip.
For parents…
Sumatrans love kids. They just do. If you have been to other parts of Southeast Asia with kids you will have witnessed the kind of attention that children can draw in this part of the world – Sumatra is definitely no different. Be aware that if your children are likely to get overwhelmed by a lot of attention then long days out here with no down time will be too much. Plan for plenty of breaks. Expect people to give things to your children (sweets, fruit, chocolate…), touch your child’s hair/skin, even pick them up if they are very young, or take them on motorbike rides if they are a little older; there is not such thing as ‘too much’ in Indonesian culture. Also expect to get access to experiences that you wouldn’t have if you were not with children; your little one(s), with you in tow, will probably be invited behind the scenes everywhere you go – make the most of this opportunity!
The vast majority of people that you encounter will be well meaning, or simply curious, but do exercise caution, just like you would at home. My advice would be that if you are planning to bring young children to Sumatra, prepare to potentially feel a little overwhelmed. Ultimately, you know your family best.
For the ladies…
Exercise the same caution that you would anywhere else; if you feel uncomfortable around someone then trust your gut and get away from them. Avoid walking alone at night, particularly in quiet/dimly lit areas. Sumatra is generally safe, but there are bad people everywhere.
LGBTQ+
Be aware that Indonesia on the whole is not a gay friendly destination. HOWEVER. It is still completely possible to have a great time here. It is considered normal for multiple people of the same sex to share a room if they are travelling together, to the extent that it is seen as strange for someone to book an entire room in any type of accommodation for just themselves if they are traveling with others. No one will question a seemingly very close friendship between members of the same sex. It is always better to err on the side of caution – don’t tell anyone that you are anything other than heterosexual, regardless of how friendly and open minded they appear. You will definitely make some wonderful Indonesian friends here, and some of them will indeed be very open minded, but homosexuality is unfortunately still a massive taboo and a topic of conversation best avoided.
A quick note on Banda Aceh.
Banda Aceh is a semi-autonomous region in the north of Sumatra which practices Shariah law; that means that there are strict laws on decency, and corporal punishment is practiced. While I am not aware of any foreign tourists having been affected by this, it is important to note that non-Muslim Indonesian offenders have been caned publicly, and I would recommend acting with more caution and doing a little further research before planning a trip to Banda Aceh. I would also note that I have visited Banda Aceh and it is a unique place which you should not necessarily write off because of it’s laws.
Jen is an English girl who found herself in Sumatra one day and never went back. A wife, mother, traveler and book worm, she has lived in Padang long enough to speak the language and unearth plenty of useful hints and tips for the weary traveler…
